Wine Spectator looks at Northern Rhône. Cuilleron wines rated above 90+

Cornas Les Vires 2009 – 94 points

Boldly ripe, yet remarkably detailed, with racy red and black currant, dark plum and hoisin sauce notes liberally laced with maduro tobacco and fresly roasted espresso notes. The rich, fleshy finish has echoes of dark olive in the wings. A gorgeous, modern style Cornas. Best from 2012 through 2020.—

Côte-Rôtie Bassenon 2009 – 93 points

A very alluring, perfumy style, with white pepper and truffle notes leading the way for dark olive, black tea and mulled blackberry fruit and a long, velvety finish. There’s depth here, but this is more about guile and finesse. Best from 2012 through 2021.—

Côte-Rôtie Madinière 2009 – 93 points

Offers a grippy edge from the start, with briar, pepper and smoldering tobacco notes framing the core of dark plum, fig sauce and blackberry fruit. The long, structured finish echoes with violet and sweet tapenade, with nicely riveted acidity. Best from 2012 through 2022.

Côte-Rôtie Terres Sombres 2009 – 93 points

Dark and rich, offering warm fig sauce, cocoa powder and roasted espresso notes driving along muscular structure, with charcoal and macerated black currant fruit holding sway on the back end. Very structured and tight, but densely packed. Should age nicely. Best from 2013 through 2023.—

St.-Joseph Les Serines 2009 – 93 points

Boysenberry and black currant fruit is wrapped in anise, plum sauce and spice notes, with ample toast on the finish. There’s plenty of grip, but a strong graphite edge underneath adds a racy note and bodes well for cellaring. Best from 2012 through 2017.

St.-Joseph L’Amarybelle 2009 – 92 points

This is mouthwatering, with dark currant, fig and black cherry fruit offset by a riveting chalky spine and a long, iron-filled finish. There’s great balance between the flesh and bones. Should age nicely. Drink now through 2017.—

Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Ripa Sinistra 2009 – 92 points

A modern style, with ample mocha and espresso notes followed by solid plum cake, fig sauce and braised cherry fruit flavors. The toasty, licorice-tinged finish is really mouthfilling but not tiring. Very solid. Syrah, from Cuilleron’s Seyssuel vineyards. Drink now through 2014.—

St.-Joseph Les Pierres Sèches 2009 – 91 points

A lovely black tea aroma pulls you in, with supple black cherry, red currant and damson plum fruit laced with a perfumy mesquite note. The long, iron-tinged finish is very sleek. Drink now through 2015.—